Life inside the densest place on earth: Remembering Kowloon Walled City
March 31, 2014 -- 
Now picture 33,000 people
 living there, within the space of one city block. That was Kowloon 
Walled City, once considered the densest settlement on earth.
"A huge monstrosity of buildings"
Before it was demolished 
twenty years ago, photographer Greg Girard spent years with collaborator
 Ian Lambot documenting this unique Hong Kong phenomenon, and remembers 
being amazed when he first saw it.
"It was a huge monstrosity of buildings," recalls Girard. "It didn't look like anything else."
After all, the Walled 
City was a kind of historical accident. A former Qing dynasty fortress, 
it never fully came under the regulation of the British colonial 
government in Hong Kong. As a result, its residents were free to build 
their dwellings as they wished, ignoring safety codes.
"Quite often houses were 
built by building onto the next building, punching out walls to use 
their staircases," said Girard. "A lot of them didn't have access to air
 or open space, because they were enclosed in the center of the 
structure."
Deep within the building's darkness, a variety of small businesses flourished.
"The places that stuck 
out were the meat factories," says Girard. "There were pig carcasses 
laying splayed out on the floor; they'd burn the hair off with a 
blowtorch, it was all pretty open and of course there were no health 
laws governing the place."
But despite the City's wild appearance, the photographer found that the people inside lived just like people anywhere else.
"People were doing very 
ordinary things," he says. "It's just that all these ordinary things 
were happening in an extraordinary place."
An ingenious community
The complexity of the Walled City also fascinated local architect Aaron Tan, now the director of Hong Kong firm Research Architecture Design. A graduate student then, he wrote his thesis on the Walled City as it was being torn down.
All these ordinary things were happening in an extraordinary place.
Greg Girard, photographer
Greg Girard, photographer
"I was fascinated -- it 
was like a piece of machinery that worked very well. The demolition was 
like taking the machine apart -- the first time you could see what was 
inside.
"It was a really 
humbling process for me as a designer -- when we met this Walled City, 
we started to see that people could be more intelligent than us, the 
designers -- that they could think of ways to solve problems that are 
outside the traditional academic world."
Tan was especially 
impressed by Kowloon Walled City's water system. To support its dense 
population, residents dug extra wells and built thousands of pipes that 
twisted through the building. But since pumping water to the City's roof
 tanks required plenty of power, the people would take turns conserving 
electricity so that water could be shared successfully.
"It revealed the community inside -- that no matter the challenges, they would find some intelligent way to solve it," says Tan.
Despite the ingenuity of
 the Walled City, by 1994 it was completely torn down by the city 
government, which was eager to replace the chaotic and unregulated 
community with a public park.
"Seeing the Walled City 
fall into disuse was sort of melancholic," says Girard. "Every city 
realizes too late to start caring about their architectural heritage -- 
it's a mistake that gets repeated everywhere. By the time you start 
caring about it, it's too late to save it."
Today, visitors to the 
site of the old Walled City will find a placid garden with swaying trees
 and cloudy ponds. In the park there is a small museum in honor of 
Kowloon Walled City. But when you look to the sky and imagine the 
colossus of Hong Kong life that once stood, it's easy to see that 
something significant has been lost.
The City is not dead
Even today, the City's 
legacy lives on. A walled neighborhood called the Narrows in the 2005 
film "Batman Begins" was based on Kowloon Walled City. The City is even a
 level in the video game "Call of Duty: Black Ops."
Because of the continued
 interest, Greg Girard is working with his fellow Kowloon Walled City 
photographer Ian Lambot to finish a new book of their stunning 
photographs, entitled "City of Darkness: Revisited." (Click here to visit the book''s crowd-funding campaign).
"You don't want to 
romanticize a slum, you know. Because it was that. But it was much more 
than that. The Walled City was a kind of architectural touchstone in 
terms of what a city can be -- unplanned, self-generated, unregulated. 
It was vital and vibrant and every part of it was being used."
Tan believes the spirit of the Walled City continues to pulse through the heart of Hong Kong itself.
"Go to The Peak and look
 down upon this amazing collection of buildings coming together -- it's 
almost like a blown up version of the Walled City, right? Each building 
is related to the next building. New programs evolve because of the 
connections."
This organic chaos, he says, has been an inspiration for his own work.
"Many architects and 
urban planners like control," he says. "But people like to get lost in 
the city. In my design process, I always consciously try to allow 
accidents, to allow others to participate, to surprise me."
 
 
 
