Hunting whales with rowing boats and spears

By Taylor Kate Brown BBC News Magazine

Commercial whaling was banned in 1986, but a remote Indonesian village is one of the few places still hunting whales using traditional methods.

From their homes perched on the slopes of a volcano, villagers look out over the Indian Ocean, watching the water intently.
A spout of water shoots up and cries of "baleo" echo across the mountain. A whale has appeared.
This is Lamalera, a village of 2,000 people and one of the last communities to hunt sperm whales in the traditional way, with harpoons and ropes.
They use similar methods to Western whalers in the early 19th Century - when crews travelled great distances in search of whales and their blubber for oil - and long before some species were hunted to near extinction.

The danger to the Lamalerans on the hunt is not unlike the life-and-death struggle described in Moby Dick, Herman Melville's famous novel about Nantucket-based whalers.
"Even though they were very experienced... there was still that sense of we were in very severe danger," says writer and explorer Will Millard, who spent a month in Lamalera.
The hunt was "horrible" to watch as a Westerner with conservation ideals, says Millard. But unlike industrial-scale hunting, where the animals were easily caught and processed to an unsustainable level, he feels this was at least a fair fight.

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"In Lamalera you felt the balance of power rest with the whale until the very end," he says.
After the whale is spotted, there is a mad sprint to the water. The first boat to harpoon the whale gets the best portion of the animal.
At the front of each vessel is the lama fa, the lead harpooner.

Experienced lama fa are highly respected because the accuracy of their aim determines the success of the hunt.
Some families are known for producing good lama fa, other men work their way up to the position after being water bailers or spotters.
"You'd see young boys - six, seven, eight - throwing little hoops in the sea," says Millard - they practice jumping into the water and hitting the inside of the hoops with long sticks.

The lama fa must be focused and not be distracted - Millard says one Lamaleran decided to not to join a hunt because he had an argument with his wife the evening before.
"If you have any kind of trouble at home, any type of negativity or negative thought you're not allowed to go to sea," he says. "It's deep superstition."
While the hunting methods are similar to Western whaling in the 19th Century, the Lamalerans' relationship with the sea is quite different.

A motor boat pulls them out to sea, but tradition means they must pull alongside the whale by their own power - when the times comes, they are cut loose and the crew rows furiously to get close enough to strike.
At the right moment, the lama fa leaps into the water, using the force of his own body weight and the iron tip of the bamboo harpoon to pierce the thick skin of the sperm whale.
If the lama fa is successful, the boat will be connected to the whale by a rope at the end of the harpoon. The whale may try to dive deep to escape, putting the boat and the crew in danger. And the lama fa must scramble back into the boat.
"You are being towed at quite a speed and you're out of control," Millard says. Western whalers knew it as "the Nantucket sleigh ride".

The Nantucket Sleigh Ride

An 1835 engraving of a whale hunt in the Pacific Ocean

From the vibrating line extending the entire length of the upper part of the boat, and from its now being more tight than a harpstring, you would have thought the craft had two keels - one cleaving the water, the other the air - as the boat churned on through both opposing elements at once. A continual cascade played at the bows; a ceaseless whirling eddy in her wake; and, at the slightest motion from within, even but of a little finger, the vibrating, cracking craft canted over her spasmodic gunwale into the sea. Thus they rushed; each man with might and main clinging to his seat, to prevent being tossed to the foam; and the tall form of Tashtego at the steering oar crouching almost double, in order to bring down his centre of gravity. Whole Atlantics and Pacifics seemed passed as they shot on their way, till at length the whale somewhat slackened his flight.
Moby Dick, Chapter 61, Stubb Kills a Whale

Whales can take hours to tire, even after being hit with multiple harpoons.
"The grim realty is it's basically a waiting game, a very dangerous waiting game," Millard says. "People have been dragged out to sea for entire nights. There's been examples of guys who got dragged almost out to Timor [about 120km away] - and ate their own clothes to survive."
Other times, whales have destroyed boats entirely - one crew from Lamalera swam 12 hours to safety.

When the whale is too tired to continue fighting, someone jumps into the water and severs the spinal cord.
The animal is then brought back to the beach, where people are rewarded with a share based on their role. Men and women carve away blubber and dissect the whale - every piece is used, from the ribs to the heart.
One whale can produce enough meat to feed the entire community. During the hunting season which lasts several months, it can been weeks between whale kills - or in the case of Millard's trip - many can be killed in a single hunt.

Lamalerans are allowed to hunt whales as they are considered aboriginal subsistence hunters by the International Whaling Commission.
They hunt for their own food stores and for barter with other villages, and sperm whales are not as endangered as other species.
But Lamalerans also catch manta rays and other large fish beyond subsistence levels - some of which they sell for cash.
The future of the hunt is unclear - many of the most talented lama fas are aging, and overfishing in the area could limit the food supply that brings the whales past Lamalera so regularly.
And the outside world is calling. The village was connected by a road a decade ago.
"People become aware of the fact that there is a easier life with a cash economy - goods and services and education that they can't get in Lamalera and that is a major draw card," Millard says.
"It's obviously a hell of a lot safer way of making a living."

At one point I was caught between two running ropes. Suddenly this was all very real indeed. They squeezed my waist as the lines screamed out in hot pursuit of the whale. I made it to the back of the boat OK, but nowhere was really safe. Seconds later the Nantucket "Hand of God" hovered in the air above the boat, the whale's tail momentarily poised to obliterate us all. I have no idea how long it took to die but it felt like forever.
Aloo had warned me it was "life and death out there", but until you have sat in that boat you can't really appreciate the gravitas of those words.

The 10 Most Corrupt Countries in the World

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Yemeni artists finish graffitis against corruption – Source: Mohammed Huwais/AFP/Getty Images

Corruption and economic turmoil often go hand-in-hand. In western nations like the United States, and in many European countries, we often see corruption come to light as the result of whistleblowers or journalistic efforts. But in many other areas of the world, however, corruption plays a major role in fostering staggering poverty and broken economic systems in a much more blatant way.
Oftentimes, specific power structures and government architectures provide an easier means for corrupt politicians, businessmen, or military officials to exploit the system. Many governments have their roots in constitutions from generations ago, and have outgrown their current systems. Many other countries are ruled by a variety of independent tribal leaders and often lack a centralized power structure with any meaningful sway.
Transparency International developed a comprehensive list of the world’s most corrupt nations last year, and the countries that top the list probably won’t come as much of a surprise to many. The study ranks countries on a scale from 0 to 100, with zero being the most corrupt, and 100 being the least.
Of course, corruption comes in a variety of forms, so getting a precise gauge is difficult. But perception itself is a very strong tool, and can have a big effect on its own. If the study reveals anything, it’s that the world overall has a huge issue in terms of corrupt officials. By looking at the Corruptions Perception Index, along with the existing power structures and economic systems within each country, the picture does become a bit clearer. That’s why we dug a little deeper, examining the rankings for ourselves.
Although not among the top ten, we’ve included the United States on the list to give perspective as to where America ranks internationally in terms of corruption and economic strife. By Transparency International’s calculations and scale, the U.S. is sitting fairly pretty, although it’s common knowledge that there are definitely issues with how things are run in Washington. Other countries you might expect to see like Russia, Mexico, or Venezuela all have their places as well, and the full list of 177 nations can be viewed straight at the source from Transparency International.
Here are the most corrupt nations in the world, as ranked by Transparency International, with additional insight into the issues and factors plaguing each one.

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An Eritrean demonstrator waves his national flag whist taking part in a demonstration – Source: Dan Kitwood/Getty Images

10. Eritrea

• Corruption score: 18
• Power structure: Single-Party Presidential Democracy

Eritrea is a new entrant onto the list this year, having vaulted from number 25 to number 10 in 2014. Many people may have never even heard of Eritrea, let alone be aware of the corruption issues the country faces. Eritrea is located in Africa, bordering the Red Sea directly across from Saudi Arabia, bordering Djibouti to the south and Sudan to the north. Eritrea is a small and relatively poor country, with a GDP of only $3.44 billion, and a population of 6.3 million.
The situation in Eritrea is clearly in flux. After years of relative self-imposed isolation, Eritrea has begun opening its borders to foreign business and investment, along with privatizing state-owned assets. That has allowed for some government officials, and others in power, to take advantage of their positions for personal profit. With undeveloped legal, economic, and political framework, the country has had a lot of trouble finding a stable foothold in the international community.
Until Eritrea can sort out its internal problems, it’s likely that the country’s numerous issues will continue. Due to rule by a single party — despite being a democracy — a suitable minority party that can successfully challenge for power is likely what is needed. The economy is expected to continue to stagnate, and the prospect of war in the region spilling over into the country’s borders are also concerns for foreign investors.

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Libyan protestors hold placards as they demonstrate – Source: Mahmud Turkia/AFP/Getty Images

9. Libya

• Corruption score: 18
• Power structure: Transitional

Few nations have experienced as much turmoil over the past few years as Libya. The country’s government saw its downfall during a mass uprising and protest, which ultimately led to protestors parading around with the body of former president Muammar Gaddafi on the streets. The country’s fall was a part of the ‘Arab Spring’, which also saw mass protests in Syria, Egypt and Bahrain, among others.
Now, Libya is still embroiled in turmoil. No formal government has taken root, and fighting between rebels and those loyal to the old administration is still taking place. Due to the high levels of uncertainty, the country’s GDP contracted 9.4 percent during 2013, according to The World Bank. The power vacuum has left open a great opportunity for arms dealers and corrupt military higher-ups to take charge and make profits by pitting citizens against each other.
Libya currently operates under a transitional government, and both its administrative and judicial systems are vulnerable to a wide variety of outside interference. It’s economy is almost entirely based on energy, which supplies 95 percent of export earnings and 80 percent of the nation’s GDP, per the CIA. Until a new, permanent government can be established, Libya will most likely remain a hotbed of political and economic instability.

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Uzbekistan fans hold up their national flag as they watch their national team play against Qatar – Karim Jaafar/AFP/Getty Images

8. Uzbekistan

• Corruption score: 18
• Power structure: Republic

One of the lesser-traveled nations in the world, Uzbekistan finds itself as one of the world’s messiest countries. From an economic standpoint, things appear to be going alright with 8% growth in GDP during 2013. In fact, information from The World Bank indicates the economy of Uzbekistan has remained more or less the same through the financial crisis which has crippled systems in Europe and North America.
The nation’s government is set up as a republic with an authoritative presidential figure in Islam Karimov. The vast majority of the country’s power resides within the executive branch, making it ripe for corruption. Karimov has been president since Uzbekistan actually became a country after the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, winning three straight terms of between five and seven years. Like many other Middle-Eastern authority figures, he has apparently not grown tired of ruling the country.
Much of the Uzbek economy relies on agriculture for subsistence, as the entire country is landlocked and experiences a very dry climate. Many multinational corporations have experienced run-ins with the country’s government, having been accused of not following local laws and customs. That hasn’t stopped the administration from trying to attract more business, however, through tax incentives and sometimes even bribery.

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Soldiers raise the national flag during a military parade marking Turkmenistan’s Independence Day – Source: AFP/Getty Images

7. Turkmenistan

• Corruption score: 17
• Power structure: Presidential Democracy/Authoritarian

Turkmenistan resides in a dangerous neighborhood, to say the least. Bordered by Iran, Afghanistan, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan to the north, the country lies in a virtual hotbed of corrupt states. With the constant turmoil all over the Middle East, it’s been very easy for the country to fall into corrupt affairs, especially concentrated at the top from the authoritarian presidential figure, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow.
The CIA’s file says that Turkmenistan likes to describe itself as a secular democracy and presidential republic, while in practice, its government more closely resembles an authoritarian dictatorship. The country itself was founded as a result of the Soviet Union’s collapse, as so many others in the region, and the resulting power struggle has left the nation highly corrupt and vulnerable to tomfoolery.
Also like many other countries in its region, Turkmenistan’s economy is largely based on agriculture and energy. The country is fortunate to have vast reserves of crude oil and natural gas to supplement the economy, although they are controlled by the government. Misuse of the state’s revenues have driven many investors away and led to high levels of corruption.

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Iraqi tribesmen carry their weapons as they gather to show their willingness to join Iraqi security forces – Source: STR/AFP/Getty Images

6. Iraq

• Corruption score: 16
• Power structure: Federal Parliamentary Constitutional Republic (ostensibly)

Many people may be surprised that Iraq isn’t higher on the list of the world’s most corrupt countries, but its certainly up there. It’s no secret the current state of affairs in Iraq is a total mess. After the second American invasion in 15 years, the pullout of U.S. forces has left Iraq a virtual power vacuum, with several different sects fighting for power over the embattled nation. Fighting is mostly concentrated between the Kurds, the Shiites and the Sunnis, but the arrival of ISIS from Syria has added additional issues.
The CIA lists Iraq’s government as a parliamentary democracy, but the legitimacy of the government is definitely up for debate. And there’s definitely little debate as to whether or not corruption has taken hold in the country, as Iraq’s vast wealth and natural resources have made it a target for all kinds of industry and war profiteers.
Iraq has actually seen some economic growth as the country rebuilds itself, but there is also a lot of outside interference from American and European contracting companies, hired to rebuild infrastructure and tap into the country’s oil reserves. The future of Iraq is probably as uncertain as any country in the world. It’s very possible that the nation will dissolve and turn into three distinct countries, as it was before Europeans entered the fray in the early 20th century. As for now, incredible instability — along with the arrival of ISIL (or ISIS) from the north — will keep the country in a state of flux.

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South Sudanese migrants wave their national flag – Source: Oren Ziv/AFP/Getty Images

5. South Sudan

• Corruption score: 15
• Power structure: Republic

One of the world’s youngest countries, South Sudan officially declared independence in 2011, following long-standing conflicts with its parent country, Sudan, which gained its independence in 1956. Between the mid-1950s and now, conflicts in the region have resulted in the deaths of as many as 2.5 million people, or so the CIA contends. South Sudan now stands as an independent republic, composed of 10 states.
A nation still in its infancy, South Sudan does not have the traditional long-standing government structures in place that many others do. This has led to ripe opportunities for corrupt politicians to step in, and as a result, the country has remained mostly undeveloped, and its citizens participate in a largely subsistence-based economic system. One other issue is the lack of a sense of nationhood among the 200 or so ethnic groups occupying the country.
According to The World Bank, the vast majority of South Sudan’s GDP — around 80% — is derived from oil exports. This has been a major problem, as international oil companies have been able to take advantage of the nation’s weak governmental structures and regulatory policies, turning huge profits at the expense of the citizens. In fact, 85% of the country’s workforce is engaged in non-paid labor. More than half live below the poverty line as well.

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An old Afghanistan flag flies – Source: Marty Melville/AFP/Getty Images

4. Afghanistan

• Corruption score: 12
• Power structure: Islamic Republic

Afghanistan has an incredibly difficult history to try and condense. The area has been inhabited for a very long time — and its geographic location has also put it in the middle of many conflicts over hundreds, if not thousands of years. There’s a reason the country has been stuck with the nickname ‘the graveyard of empires’, as it is incredibly difficult to not only conquer, but to keep under control.
The country has been loosely held together by a central government that largely lacks power, and has been carved up by a myriad of local tribal leaders and warlords, as we’ve seen first-hand with the Taliban and Al-Qaeda. The country’s now-former president Hamid Karzai was notoriously corrupt — he’s been recently busted for taking bagfuls of money from the American military, among other things. Afghanistan is also home to an enormous amount of the world’s heroin production, which has brought lots of wealth to a lucky few.
The country’s economy has remained in a state of flux for some time now, although the fall of the Taliban has helped — as has a flood of international aid. But it still faces major issues going forward. As the CIA puts it, “Criminality, insecurity, weak governance, lack of infrastructure, and the Afghan Government’s difficulty in extending rule of law to all parts of the country pose challenges to future economic growth.”

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Sudanese wave national flags as they gather outside the Defence Ministry in the capital Khartoum – Source: Ashraf Shazly/AFP/Getty Images

3. Sudan

• Corruption score: 11
• Power structure: Federal Republic

One country that has been wrapped thoroughly in the grasp of war for many years is the African nation of Sudan. Long-standing conflicts between competing factions and ethnic groups have destabilized the country’s ability to efficiently operate from an economic standpoint, and the result has been devastating to many of the country’s citizens. South Sudan has also recently broken-off from the rest of the country, taking with it vast oil reserves. CNN reports that Sudan’s GDP was expected to contract by a fair amount due to South Sudan’s departure.
The country’s government is listed as a federal republic, which is ruled by the National Congress Party, according to the CIA. The NCP came to power after a coup d’etat in 1989, and has not been able to successfully repair the nation’s issues. As a result of the prolonged instability, Sudan’s GDP has tanked since spiking in 2006, much of which has to do with the situation in South Sudan.
64.5% of Sudan’s citizens live under the poverty line, by The World Bank’s calculations. The nation’s GDP stands at $66.55 billion as well. Both of these statistics would likely see improvement if not for some of the draconian and growth-inhibiting policies of the NCP. Also, if Sudan can find a way to rid itself of some of its corrupt officials, many violent conflicts could possibly see resolution as well.

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Propaganda mural painting is seen outside People’s Palace of Culture – Source: Feng Li/Getty Images

Tie – 1. North Korea

• Corruption score: 8
• Power structure: Dictatorship

The world’s biggest wildcard is North Korea. There is little doubt in anyone’s mind that the country is immensely corrupt, having been effectively run into the ground over the past half-century by Kim Jong Sun, Kim Jong Il and now Kim Jung Un, all of whom the country’s citizens affectionately have referred to as ‘Supreme Leader’. The CIA lists North Korea’s government as a ‘communist state one-man dictatorship’, with an estimated GDP of $28 billion as of 2009.
Notorious for having very little electricity and sending its citizens to prison camps, North Korea’s government and economy are effectively shrouded in mystery. While it does receive aid from countries like China, North Korea obviously has had problems producing enough fuel and food to properly care for its citizens. Military spending far outweighs spending on social programs and aid, mostly to put on appearances for the rest of the world in their famous outbursts of saber-rattling, and to keep citizens in line.
The country’s major issues can be traced back to a number of natural disasters and the collapse of the Soviet Union, as the land, people and equipment have all been ‘worn out’ over the years, according to a CNN report. With little hope for change in the near future, North Korea is destined to remain one of the planet’s most corrupt and destitute nations.

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A pirate stands on a rocky outcrop on the coast in Hobyo, central Somalia – Source: Roberto Schmidt/AFP/Getty Images

Tie – 1. Somalia

• Corruption score: 8
• Power structure: Almost none; “in the process of building a federal parliamentary republic” – CIA

Somalia may just be the most unstable country on the entire planet. The country has become infamous in the United States as being the setting for the Blackhawk Down incident, as well as the country’s pirates who are known to take over passing ships in the Gulf of Aden and Indian Ocean. The country is barely held together by an incredibly loose central government, and is more accurately being run by a number of competing clans and warlords, creating lots of hostility and division.
Life in Somalia is notoriously tough. On the economic front, many people make a living from raising livestock or farming, and others from fishing. Of course, with things remaining such a mess at the top of the power structure, any long-term planning for social programs and infrastructure is difficult. According to The World Bank, only 29% of the country’s population has been enrolled in school, and life expectancy is only 55 years. Both of these numbers rank well-below most other countries, and provide some insight into the internal strife the country is experiencing.
Beyond these things, information on the inner workings of Somalia’s government and its economic system are scarce. That alone is rather telling, as corrupt officials may not want outsiders seeing the true picture of what’s going on inside the country’s borders.

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President Barack Obama works on a draft of his State of the Union address in the Oval Office January 27, 2014 at the White House – Source: Alex Wong/Getty Images

Honorable Mention: The United States

• Corruption score: 74
• power structure: Democratic Republic

There has to be an honorable mention for the United States, which many people figure has to be the most corrupt nation on Earth. The fact is, the U.S. does have a great deal of corruption in many forms, like lobbying, bribery, gerrymandering, and bought elections. But according to the corruption index, the U.S. pales in comparison to countries in Africa, Asia, and the Middle East.
The economic system of the U.S. — although often portrayed as ‘free-market’ — does not quite live up to that description, in many cases. A quick look at the telecom or energy industry shows that many monopolistic forces are at play, and big money oftentimes can get laws rewritten to preserve power and influence. Pressure from big business and labor groups is a major factor in why America is the only major world power without a nationalized healthcare system, and why there has been enormous growth in inequality, particularly as of late.
There are definitely many issues the United States needs to work out — from the financial system to elections — but with the status quo firmly set in place, there isn’t much indication that citizens should expect big-time change in the near-term.

Follow Sam on Twitter @Sliceofginger

Preserving the world's oldest teak bridge

 

The 160-year-old bridge, thought to be the world's oldest and longest teak bridge, spans 1.2 kilometres across Taungthaman Lake in Amarapura, an ancient city near Mandalay

 

The famous U Bein Bridge is certainly one of the most photographed iconic sites near the northern city of Mandalay, but not many visitors are aware that the bridge is actually showing the ravages of time despite its sturdy teakwood architecture.

 

After over a century of exposure to the elements and natural disasters, the bridge has fallen into disrepair. Mandalay authorities are planning a major maintenance programme even after a series of pillar replacements just a few years ago. The Mandalay regional government says the bridge's structural deterioration necessitates urgent repair work. 

 

"As the bridge is old and aging, it has started dangerously decaying," Mandalay Finance and Revenue Minister Myint Kyu said, adding: "We are drafting now for major renovation work on the bridge. Specific details will be released this week. We will submit the draft to the regional government, and we will be holding a press conference as well. Public suggestions are welcome."

 

A major overhaul of the bridge is required because only minor repairs have been done in the past, critics say. The regional government spent Ks 13 million to repair the bridge in March 2013 because its pillars were badly decayed.

 

But repairing the bridge is no mean feat given its size and length. 

 

The 160-year-old bridge, thought to be the world's oldest and longest teak bridge, spans 1.2 kilometres across Taungthaman Lake in Amarapura, an ancient city near Mandalay. 

 

As repair work has not yet begun to return the bridge to its original glory, now is the best time to see the ramshackle bridge in its classic look. 

 

Named after the mayor who had it built around 1849, the bridge originally had four resting places, 482 sections and 1,086 pillars taken from the former Innwa Palace that was flattened by a series of earthquakes in 1839. A new royal palace was subsequently erected in 1842 in Amarapura, 11 kilometres to the south of Mandalay. Established by King Bodawpaya in 1783, Amarapura was the centre of power until 1857 when the capital was moved to Mandalay.

 

In its early days, U Bein was known as the ’bridge without water’ because the lake was empty. With the introduction of irrigation, the lake was eventually flooded and became one of important freshwater fisheries. 

 

Conservationists say the lake's increasing pollution and water acidity have contributed to the bridge's decaying foundations. A major restoration programme began in 1995 to replace its teak pillars with concrete ones. But the effort sparked a heated debate about the impact of the bridge's renovations on its historical value and original charm.

 

Local residents who are dependent on Mandalay's tourisms for their survival are urging local authorities to repair the bridge urgently for fear that the city's tourism will be undermined if the bridge collapses. 

 

If you're planning a day trip to Innwa or Sagaing, the U Bein Bridge is well worth a visit especially in the late afternoon when the bridge is buzzing with locals scurrying back home from work, some pulling their bicycles, others lumbering under the loads of firewood or ingredients for dinner perched atop their heads. There's a row of teashops where you can relax while watching the human tide flowing back and forth across the lake.

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