Wider World by CS

Two thriving vineyards in Shan State
Written by
Claudia Sosa
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Pruning the vines. Photo: Christopher Smith
Reds, whites and breathtaking views

The drive into the Shan hills from sleepy Nyaung Shwe is breathtakingly scenic, passing century-old teak monasteries, sunflower fields and small villages where advertising for consumer goods co-exists with traditional bamboo architecture. It’s a shock when the bumpy road provides a first glimpse of the sprawling acres of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir tended by the indigenous Pa’O in their characteristic, bright headscarves. It’s crazier still to think that this dark red earth of Shan State, which has seen decades of armed conflict, is now home to thriving vineyards.

How exactly did winemaking make its way to Myanmar, of all places? An otherwise humble Bert Morsbach is happy to take the credit for singlehandedly kick-starting Myanmar’s wine industry. He’s earned it too, especially after armed conflict in Kayah State put an abrupt end to his first attempt at a winery in 1998. “Tenacity,” he says in a stern German tone, when asked what it takes to do well in this region. Yet , despite being a businessman at heart, his voice softens when he speaks about Aythaya wines.

After abandoning efforts in Loikaw when the government could no longer guarantee his safety, Mr Morsbach decided to give winemaking in Myanmar one more try, this time at Aythaya village, nestled among the hills around picturesque Inle Lake. His determination has paid off and 15 years later Aythaya Vineyards is experiencing annual growth of between 40 percent and 50 percent. Last year’s vintage has sold out and sales have doubled every three years.

Admittedly, great wine is not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Southeast Asia. Mr Morsbach agrees that, “producing a good harvest [here] is a major undertaking.” With the Inle Lake region receiving as much yearly rainfall as Germany, but in a shorter, concentrated period, fungus is one of the major concerns of viticulturists in the tropics. But once they have a grasp of the challenges imposed by the climate, the results can be spectacular.

Aythaya’s wines are progressively moving in that direction and Mr Morscbach argues that his Sauvignon Blanc, in particular, is as good as similar varietals from New Zealand. It’s light and crisp, if slightly on the sweeter side of the spectrum, but one sip is all it takes to wipe away sour memories of some frighteningly bad wines made in Thailand or Vietnam.

The 28-acre (11.3 hectare) Aythaya Vineyards estate is absolutely breathtaking and well worth a visit. The open-air hillside restaurant - open daily from 8:30am to 9:00pm (closed Mondays in the rainy season) - overlooks thousands of vines, as well as three ponds. In the middle of one of the ponds is a private dining table, sheltered by a canopy, which is the perfect setting for a romantic afternoon or one of Aythaya’s famed “sunset dinners,” featuring local specialties as well as a selection of European dishes. Visitors are advised to call in advance to reserve the table on the pond. Should an afternoon turn into the most pleasant of late nights, it’s worth considering staying in one of the two secluded Monte di Vino Lodge teak cabins, which have private, panoramic views of the Aythaya Vineyards estate. At US$120 (about K117,000) a night for the smallest of the two cabins, they are arguably among the best-value, most unique accommodation in Southeast Asia. Even if you stay elsewhere, hiring a private car from your hotel at Inle Lake or from Heho airport to tour the vineyards should only cost about $30 for a day.

But why stop at one vineyard? If you plan your trip carefully, a day is more than enough to visit both Aythaya Vineyards and the Red Mountain Estate, the only other vineyard in the region, and in Myanmar, for that matter. Your palate will definitely thank you, even if your liver might not.

Set amid similarly scenic terrain but overlooking the Inle Lake valley, Red Mountain welcomes visitors every day from 9am-6pm, through private sunset dinners can be arranged if bookings are made in advance. (Red Mountain moved its original closing time forward to the late afternoon out of concern for the safety of visitors after some tried to cycle back to Nyaung Shwe in darkness and after too much to drink). The sprawling estate boasts a stone underground cellar and a restaurant offering panoramic views of the lake and serving international cuisine. Its visitor centre and restaurant are on the smaller of two estates that collectively produce more than 200,000 bottle of wine a year. Though 100 percent Myanmar-owned, Red Mountain Vineyards believes in adhering to the strictest European standards. In that spirit, it’s imported all its equipment from Italy, its oak barrels from Hungary, and its original vines from France, Spain and Israel. In its early days, it even imported glass bottles from France. Under the 12-year guidance of French oenologist and viticulturalist François Raynal, who’s made Red Mountain his life's work, the winery has grown from a seven hectare (17.13 acre) experiment to a 75-hectare (185 acre) institution. A testament to Myanmar’s growing wine market, Red Mountain also sold out last year’s vintage, though a small selection remains at its in-house boutique for visitors who’d like an original souvenir from Inle. At $8 to $13 a bottle, prices are a steal compared to the prices for the same wine in Nyaung Shwe or Yangon.

Red Mountain is clearly a labour of love for Mr Raynal, who understands that an appreciation for exquisite, European-quality wine sometimes trumps business sensibilities. To that effect, nearly 300 Pa’O work daily to harvest 19 varietals, including low-yield grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, which, while bad for business, result in better wines.

Red Mountain aims for quality as well as breadth, offering a wider selection than nearby Aythaya Vineyards. While its Sauvignon Blanc is also among its strongest wines, the Red Mountain reds - particularly the Pinot Noir - can hold their own and are clearly superior to Aythaya reds. Industry sources say the reason for this is because Red Mountain directly oversees all phases of the winemaking process, while Aythaya has trained about 40 farmers south of Mandalay to grow grapes on contract. Aythaya's objective was to increase the incomes of Myanmar growers while allowing its prices to remain competitive (a bottle of its most affordable Monte Vino sells for just $6.50 at City Mart). Whether it’s a move that’s good for business but bad for taste remains to be seen, though Mr Morsbach believes that contract farming and wider use of mechanisation will create a robust domestic wine industry that’s also inclusive of indigenous populations.

It’s striking that Aythaya, while adamantly championing local inclusion and local knowledge, remains a wholly foreign-owned enterprise. Meanwhile, Red Mountain Winery is a Myanmar-owned enterprise that nonetheless emphasises strict European standards. Despite these drastically different approaches to tropical viticulture and business in Myanmar, there’s a bright future ahead for both vineyards. Mr Morsbach is optimistic about the future and plans to expand production and build conference facilities to make the vineyard a venue for business meetings. “There have been moments of happiness but not of pride,” Mr Morsbach said, as he recounted the feeling of sitting down at the end of the day to drink a satisfying glass of wine. “It’s very rewarding, and now, it’s also become financially rewarding,” he said.

Both Red Mountain and Aythaya agree that a demographic shift has resulted in a greater proportion of Myanmar customers, compared to when they both went into business more than a decade ago and most of their wine was sold to foreigners.

Both companies sell most of their product on the domestic market through retailers such as City Mart and at better quality restaurants in Yangon, Mandalay and around Inle Lake. Red Mountain has no immediate plans to expand but it is hoping to improve yields and aims to produce about 500,000 bottles a year. Nono, a Pa’O who is Red Mountain’s head of marketing, says it intends to compete with European wines. While this may seem to be a lofty ambition, what these two vineyards have accomplished in less than two decades is proof that the sky is the limit for the wine industry in Myanmar.

Contact information:
Aythaya Vineyard 
http://www.myanmar-vineyard.com
Htone-Bo Aythaya,Taunggyi
Southern Shan State
081-208653, 081-208548

Red Mountain Estate
http://www.redmountain-estate.com/index.html
Taung Chay Village Group,
Nyaung Shwe Township
081-209366, 081-209554