Celebrate the Grape Harvest, Alto Douro Region, Portugal

 

 

Celebrate the Grape Harvest,
Alto Douro Region, Portugal

Photograph by Miquel Gonzalez, laif/Redux

2013 Best Fall Trip #3
For nearly 2,000 years, wine has been produced in northern Portugal’s steeply terraced Alto Douro region, a World Heritage site and the birthplace of port wine. Get knee-deep in the region’s traditional port vinification process by joining a jubilant grape-crushing session at a historic quinta, or estate.
When to Go: September-October
How to Get Around: Small group tour operators like A2Z Adventures and Douro vou offer single- and multiday Douro Valley itineraries from Porto Antigo (about two hours west) combining boat cruises or scenic rail trips with vineyard tours, tastings, hiking, biking, “winecaching,” or grape harvesting. If going solo, make at least one leg of the trip a Douro River cruise for the most dramatic views of the valley’s terraced vineyards.
Where to Eat or Drink: Tasting port is a given, but don’t bypass the region’s emerging table wines from the Douro Boys, a group of five quintas (Quinta do Vallado, Niepoort, Quinta do Crasto, Quinta Vale D. Maria and Quinta do Vale Meấo) celebrating its tenth anniversary in September. Most of the welcome visitors to their estates for tastings, full meals, or picnic lunches (idyllic vineyard picnic spot included).
Where to Stay: Casa de Casal de Loivos sits on a hilltop and reveals one of the most breathtaking views overlooking the Douro River Valley. Stay in one of six river-view rooms that open out to a grand terrace, perfect for soaking in the picturesque landscape. The historic mansion is furnished with family heirlooms from the Pereira de Sampayo family, which has owned the manor for nearly 300 years. Lavish meals are served in a large dining room, and the attentive, friendly staff provides insider tips for vineyard tours and tastings in the region. After a day exploring the valley, return to the manor and wander through the residential gardens, lounge poolside, and order a bottle of wine from the family’s vineyard to watch the sunset.
Cultural Tip: An increasing number of Alto Douro quintas are actively promoting wine tourism, but others are not open to the public or don’t host harvest activities. Before visiting, check each estate’s website for specifics.
What to Read Before You Go: Port and the Douro by port wine expert Richard Mayson (Infinite Ideas, 2013)
What to Watch Before You Go: The Strange Case of Angelica (2010), directed by Porto native Manoel de Oliveira and filmed on location in the Douro Valley
Helpful Links: Go Oporto, Douro Valley, and Portugal’s Douro Valley Geotourism Map Guide
Fun Fact: To regulate the Douro Valley’s most profitable export, the Marquis de Pombal positioned 335 large granite pillars (known ever since as pombals) around the original zone officially permitted to produce port. The markers were inscribed with the word feitoria (factory) plus the date (either 1758 or 1761) on which they were placed.
Insider Tip: The Douro Valley’s unique landscape is best seen by car. Travelers can take in the spectacular views from hilltops and down along the river valley when driving through pretty towns to a variety of quintas for small wine tastings and vineyard tours. Caution: The roads in the Douro Valley are narrow and winding. There aren’t many guardrails or lights through the steep region so be extra cautious when driving at night. —Andrea Leitch, associate producer, Travel Digital