วันพุธที่ 14 พฤศจิกายน พ.ศ. 2555

Climb, play, pray

Mount Wudang
Mount Wudang

Modern pilgrims are choosing to recharge their batteries by retreating to traditional havens of religion and tranquillity



China is known for its mountainous religious retreats where many of the major beliefs first saw the light of day. The most famous are the abode of the Shaolin monks and the home of the Wudang Taoists, but there are many more noteworthy hill retreats that today attract the more modern pilgrim.

MOUNT WUTAI

Home to many of China's most important monasteries and temples and inscribed as a Unesco World Heritage Site, Wutai boasts 53 sacred venues. It is also believed to be the ashram, or spiritual hermitage, of the Bodhisattva of wisdom, Manjusri (or Wenshu in Chinese).

The must-see is Nanshan Temple. Built in the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), the temple complex has seven terraces, which are then divided into three parts. The lower three terraces form the Jile Temple, the middle terrace is the Shande Hall and the top three terraces become the Youguo Temple. All are worthy of a climb.

Also worth visiting is Pusa Peak, where the Bodhisattva of wisdom once resided.

Getting there: Mount Wutai is in northeast Shanxi province, about half way between Taiyuan, the provincial capital, and Datong. Flights go to either city and are followed by a five-hour bus journey,

Lodging is concentrated in Taihuai Village in Mount Wutai. Budget guesthouses are available, with a mid-range room costing about 100 yuan (Bt490) per night for two persons.

SHAOLIN TEMPLE

The birthplace of Chinese martial arts and Zen Buddhism, Shaolin Temple boasts a wealth of cultural relics, making it popular among tourists and Buddhists alike. Nestled on Mount Songshan, Shaolin Temple is believed to be at the centre of the world, and therefore a repository of energy, or qi.

Take a reflective walk through the Pagoda Forest, a cemetery containing the ashes of monks stored in more than 200 pagodas and steles donated by foreign martial arts schools.

The hills west of the temple are also worth exploring, where the 750-metre-high Wuru Peak is marked by a three-storey statue of Damo, the patriarch who first taught Shaolin monks martial arts and positioned the temple as the birthplace of Zen Buddhism in China.

Getting there: You can reach Zhengzhou by plane or train, then board a bus to Dengfeng county. The bus ride takes about an hour, at the end of which is a 20-minute-ride by minibus or a taxi to Shaolin Temple.

Wangzhi Gou, a small village south of Shaolin Temple, has about 30 hostels and hotels, and the Shaolin Tourism Hotel is one of the most comfortable options.

MOUNT WUDANG

Wudang is the Mecca for Taoists and kung fu lovers. The site in Hubei province is known for its Taoist monasteries as well as the birthplace of a martial arts style popular the world over.

You can read Taoist scriptures and practice tai chi here or you can play observer and climb the Heavenly Pillar Peak to be involved in an ancient Taoist pilgrimage.

The Prince Slope is now dominated by buildings constructed in 1413 based on the Zhenwu scriptures.

The Yellow River Wall of Nine Curves is another must-see. The wall, 1.5 metres thick and 2.5 metres high, is said to embody the nine virtues of Taoism and will bless those who make contributions to the religion.

Getting there: Mount Wudang is located in Shiyan, Hubei province. Visitors can depart from Wuhan, the provincial capital. The bus from Wuhan to the mountain takes about six hours, while the train takes about five. From affordable hostels to high-end hotels, the Wudang area offers scores of boarding options. If you wish to sleep over at a Taoist convent on the mountain, ask the resident monks.

MOUNT TAISHAN

According to many ancient Chinese creation myths, Taishan was the point from which the world originated. Today, the mountain in Shandong province is still revered both in the Buddhism and Taoist faiths. Traditional belief also maintains that each day begins with the sun rising at Taishan before it starts its westward journey across the world.

Mount Taishan rises 150 metres above sea level in the city of Tai’an to 1,545 metres at the Jade Emperor Peak. It is a World Heritage Site festooned with a chain of 22 temples, 97 ruins, 819 stone tablets and 1,018 stone inscriptions.

Getting there: Fly to Jinan then take an express bus from the airport to Tai’an city. It’s a 90-minute ride. From downtown Jinan, go to Beiyuanjie for buses to Tai’an. From Tai’an Bus Station, it’s a 10 yuan taxi ride to Taishan.

Sun worshippers can find lodging on the mountain. Hotels on the mountainside cost about 1,400 yuan per night. A cheaper option is to sleep in bunk beds lining these hotels’ hallways (200-600 yuan) or rent a tent (25 yuan).

NEDONG COUNTY, TIBET

Nedong County in Shannan prefecture, in Tibet autonomous region, is an oasis of tranquillity. It’s home to the region’s first palace as well as Tibet’s first formal Buddhist monastery. The place is also known as the cradle of Tibetan history and culture.

The Samye Monastery built in the eighth century is Tibet's oldest and was the site of the "the Great Debate" (AD 792-794) between the Indian Mahayanists and Chinese Zen Buddhists.

All four major sects of Tibetan Buddhism share presence in Samye.

Another must-see in the region is Yambulakang, the first Tibetan palace. The palace perched precariously on the top of Mount Tashitseri, overlooking the Yarlung Zangbo River valley, which is considered the place of origin of Tibetan civilisation.

Getting there: Nedong county is no more than 200 km from Lhasa. You can take a bus or rent a car. To visit the Samye Monastery, about 50 km from Lhasa airport, choose between a bumpy two-hour drive from Zedang town along a mountain path or an hour-long ferry ride across the Yarlung Zangbo River.

There are dozens of guesthouses and hotels in Nedong county.

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